# Living in or around Plymouth



## t0bytoo (Sep 7, 2006)

I'm looking at getting involved with a scuba diving business in Plymouth. No doubts about the scuba diving bit, as it is a fully affirmed passion.

Never been to Plymouth, though I have travelled around the west country a bit, and a good friend in Totnes tells me that's a particularly lovely part of the world.

I'd be there half or three quarters of the year. I've lived mostly in big cities the last few years, with extended chunks of time in countryside places - currently in rural menorca. 

But how is life down there? Anyone got any tips / thoughts / experiences to share?

cheers...


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## Skim (Sep 7, 2006)

I grew up there although couldn't wait to leave, which I did in 1992. I left for a number of reasons, one of them was that it doesn't offer many employment opportunities and its cultural life leaves much to be desired.

If you're into scuba diving though (or any watersports), it's a fantastic place to live. The city itself isn't much to look at (much of it was destroyed in the Blitz and is littered with ugly 50s/60s architecture) but there are some gems, like the Hoe (looking out over Plymouth Sound) and the Barbican. 

Outisde of the city there are loads of beaches to explore, and you're not far from Dartmoor, which is beautiful. It's very well-positioned to explore Devon and Cornwall.

There's a big military/naval presence, although there's a sizeable student population as well. On the whole it's a pretty unpretentious, friendly place to live.


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## nightowl (Sep 7, 2006)

plymouth does have its good bits, like the barbican and home park (home to the mighty plymouth argyle). however, on the whole the city itself is a bit grey and drab. the areas outside it do compensate though: dartmoor national park right on your doorstep, cornwall (otherwise known as god's country) etc, etc. therefore don't expect bucketloads from the city itself but there is plenty to do aroundabout.


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## Tom A (Sep 7, 2006)

Plymouth is my home town, and I lived there right up till I left for uni at 18. For the most part I couldn't wait to leave, as has been said the city centre is a grim post-war monstrosity (in fact my late stepdad used to say that "what Hitler couldn't do to Plymouth the town planners did") and I have no connections with it now since my mum moved out last year. Lived most of my life there in Stoke (as in Stoke Damerel, not Stoke-on-Trent where funnily enough I now live near to), which for the most part was OK as an area but some parts are a bit rundown, and I have heard it has gone downhill, and when we finally got rehoused (due to our house being declared unfit for human habitation), I spent the last three years of my time there in Efford, which has some pretty rough parts although I lived in the more savoury end towards Higher Compton, opposite the crematorium. As for as any advice goes about living there goes, Stonehouse and Devonport are pretty grim, particularly the former around Millbay, the red-light part of town, same goes the area immediately towards the eastern side of the city centre, St Judes and Prince Rock, as well as the council estates of North Prospect (aka the infamous "Swilly"), Honicknowle, and Barne Barton. My mum lived in Peverell for a while and that was a fairly nice area, as is Milehouse. As far as nightlife goes Union Street is the traditional nightlife hub although it's infamous for violent incidents, particularly since we have both the army and navy within our fair walls. Additonally there is a lot of pubs around Mutley Plain and North Hill, although they are mostly there for the students if that is an issue. Apart from that, the best thing about Plymouth must be the A38 dual carridgeway that takes you out of it, to the amazing delights of either Cornwall or Dartmoor (which is pretty amazing although a real pig to get to without a car).


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## nightowl (Sep 7, 2006)

there's plenty of decent places within an easy commute of plymouth. if i was moving back down there i'd probably want to live in tavistock


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## Tom A (Sep 7, 2006)

Tavistock is nice, also Ivybirdge and Saltash (just over the Tamar in Cornwall) is fairly decent, and just as close too. However the problem with these places, which is true of anywhere in the rural West Country is that the prices are sky-high as they are in high demand due to being prime retirement country (as well as greedy Londoner yuppies buying them for weekend retreats).


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## nightowl (Sep 7, 2006)

ivybridge is a soulless middle class commuter hellhole. boredom city.


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## fractionMan (Sep 8, 2006)

Tom A said:
			
		

> Plymouth is my home town, and I lived there right up till I left for uni at 18. For the most part I couldn't wait to leave, as has been said the city centre is a grim post-war monstrosity (in fact my late stepdad used to say that "what Hitler couldn't do to Plymouth the town planners did") and I have no connections with it now since my mum moved out last year. Lived most of my life there in Stoke (as in Stoke Damerel, not Stoke-on-Trent where funnily enough I now live near to), which for the most part was OK as an area but some parts are a bit rundown, and I have heard it has gone downhill, and when we finally got rehoused (due to our house being declared unfit for human habitation), I spent the last three years of my time there in Efford, which has some pretty rough parts although I lived in the more savoury end towards Higher Compton, opposite the crematorium. As for as any advice goes about living there goes, Stonehouse and Devonport are pretty grim, particularly the former around Millbay, the red-light part of town, same goes the area immediately towards the eastern side of the city centre, St Judes and Prince Rock, as well as the council estates of North Prospect (aka the infamous "Swilly"), Honicknowle, and Barne Barton. My mum lived in Peverell for a while and that was a fairly nice area, as is Milehouse. As far as nightlife goes Union Street is the traditional nightlife hub although it's infamous for violent incidents, particularly since we have both the army and navy within our fair walls. Additonally there is a lot of pubs around Mutley Plain and North Hill, although they are mostly there for the students if that is an issue. Apart from that, the best thing about Plymouth must be the A38 dual carridgeway that takes you out of it, to the amazing delights of either Cornwall or Dartmoor (which is pretty amazing although a real pig to get to without a car).



To add to this list, St Judes is a dump and Keyham aint nice (that's where I grew up).  I'd argue that milbay has gone up market since I left and it's now not too bad a place to live.

If had to pick somewhere, It's be the hoe.  Mighty expensive though.


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## pootle (Sep 8, 2006)

I went to university there, and whilst I've been to better places, I didn't hate it either (although I did whilst I was living in Devonport...)

I'm wondering what someone was thinking though when they put a sizeable student, squaddie and naval population together, not to mention the many, many foreign sailors that flood the town on shore leave.

I'd live there again though, if I had to.  It's beautiful surroundings not far out of town, and the town itself is getting lots of regeneration money.  I know the town centre shopping centre is finally becoming an indoor mall.  Also, it rains in Plymouth.  A LOT.

Oh, and there's Cap'n Jaspers too, or was - sort of a greasy spoon, but more like a shack.


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## Tom A (Sep 8, 2006)

pootle said:
			
		

> I know the town centre shopping centre is finally becoming an indoor mall.


You mean Drake Circus? Never seen it apart from the construction site but it's probably a damn sight better than the concrete-cancer ridden gloomy hell hole that it replaced (although towards the end that place did have some interesting shops and cafes, probably because the rent was dirt cheap compared with the rest of town).


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## Iam (Sep 8, 2006)

pootle said:
			
		

> Oh, and there's Cap'n Jaspers too, or was - sort of a greasy spoon, but more like a shack.



Mmmm, yard long sausage n egg sticks...  

Oh, I used to live in Tamerton Foliat, which apart from being one of the silliest named places in the country was quite nice. Although we lived on the ex-Navy estate right at the top and it was a bit legoland-ish - and crap if you don't have a car.

I quite liked Plymouth as a city (I had 18 months there after we left Salford), but in the end it was too far away from everywhere else to stay there long.


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## Skim (Sep 8, 2006)

Iam said:
			
		

> Oh, I used to live in Tamerton Foliat, which apart from being one of the silliest named places in the country was quite nice. Although we lived on the ex-Navy estate right at the top and it was a bit legoland-ish - and crap if you don't have a car.




Tamerton Foliot's my manor


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## Skim (Sep 8, 2006)

Tom A said:
			
		

> You mean Drake Circus? Never seen it apart from the construction site but it's probably a damn sight better than the concrete-cancer ridden gloomy hell hole that it replaced (although towards the end that place did have some interesting shops and cafes, probably because the rent was dirt cheap compared with the rest of town).



It was a gloomy hell-hole before, but the new shopping centre is incredibly ugly. It's got about three different designs and it looks like a giant biscuit.


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## Skim (Sep 8, 2006)

A giant wafer, to be exact.


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## Tom A (Sep 8, 2006)

Ohmyfuckinggod!!! Only in Plymouth would anyone consider such a monstrosity.*


Oh, hang on, Arndale Manchester... nope, that must the the ugliest building I have seen in the UK.


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## Tom A (Sep 8, 2006)

nightowl said:
			
		

> ivybridge is a soulless middle class commuter hellhole. boredom city.


Still would rather live there than Swilly.


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## Skim (Sep 8, 2006)

Tom A said:
			
		

> Ohmyfuckinggod!!! Only in Plymouth would anyone consider such a monstrosity.*



It gets worse...






There are some really ugly buildings in Plymouth


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## Idaho (Sep 8, 2006)

Tom A said:
			
		

> in fact my late stepdad used to say that "what Hitler couldn't do to Plymouth the town planners did"


Exeter too alas. Hard to believe that it used to be one of the finest mediaeval cities in the country.


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## Tom A (Sep 8, 2006)

I actually quite like Exeter, only visited it a handful of times but it seemed a fairly nice city visual wise, definately nicer than Plymouth in that way (although maybe it was because I just had a thing about red-brick buildings, which Plymouth is mostly devoid of), maybe a bit middle class although that could just be the univerisity.


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## Idaho (Sep 8, 2006)

I think Exeter is a little more gentrified than Plymouth. A history of being a commercial and administrative centre rather than a Navy and industrial one. It still bears deep scars from the post war town planners.


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## nightowl (Sep 9, 2006)

Tom A said:
			
		

> Ohmyfuckinggod!!! Only in Plymouth would anyone consider such a monstrosity



the only thing i'll say in its defence is that charles cross church does look rather impressive flanked by the 'giant wafers' if you're driving towards it from the exeter side


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## Tom A (Sep 9, 2006)

nightowl said:
			
		

> the only thing i'll say in its defence is that charles cross church does look rather impressive flanked by the 'giant wafers' if you're driving towards it from the exeter side


But if you are going towards Plymouth from Exeter on the National Express then you have all the joys of Bretonside bus station, which is enough to make anyone get the next coach back... 

(E2A: except that the coach would get there b4 it got to charles cross, duh!)


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## Meltingpot (Sep 9, 2006)

*Plymouth*

I've got a friend in St. Judes, which is not far from town but has a few shops and facilities of its own. It's probably where I'd go if I wanted to move back and funds were limited.

There's a hilltop called Blockhouse Park (or Mount Pleasant Redoubt) in Stoke Village, which has panoramic views out over Plymouth, Cornwall, The Hoe and much of Dartmoor. I don't know much about the nightlife, but I've heard good things about the beer in the Dolphin pub on the Barbican and I was very impressed with the King's Head pub near the bus station; a friendly pub with several draught ciders.


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## Poot (Sep 9, 2006)

I moved from London to Plymouth 2 years ago and it's the best move I ever made! 

I think there may already be a scuba diving place on the Hoe, but it's not like we're short of divers! 

Seriously, whatever anyone says about it being expensive here, it's still far cheaper than the South East and it seems to be on the up. There's definitely money to be made, and whilst it's true that some areas are dog rough, the houses in those areas are very very affordable and probably a good way of getting a foot on the ladder.  

PM me if you need local knowledge about anything, I might be able to check stuff out while you're abroad.


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## Tom A (Sep 10, 2006)

Meltingpot said:
			
		

> There's a hilltop called Blockhouse Park (or Mount Pleasant Redoubt) in Stoke Village, which has panoramic views out over Plymouth, Cornwall, The Hoe and much of Dartmoor.


Ahh the Blockhouse, used to spend many an afternoon there when I was a little kid. It does have some amazing views of the city and surroundings, not somewhere I would recommened going though at night but that is true of any isolated park. Not been to Stoke Village for a good five years though, it was OK when I left but things may have changed.


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## nightowl (Sep 10, 2006)

Tom A said:
			
		

> But if you are going towards Plymouth from Exeter on the National Express then you have all the joys of Bretonside bus station, which is enough to make anyone get the next coach back...



dunno, you kind of get used to the smell of piss and vomit after you've walked through it a few times


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## Asriel (Sep 14, 2006)

I moved down to Plymouth 6 months ago after 7 years in London, and for me, it's the best thing I've ever done.

As people mention your right next to Cornwall and Datrmoor, Whitsand bay is about twenty mintues away, although there are closer beaches. We recently had the F1 power boats down and the British Firework championship as well.

The Barbican and Hoe are really nice and there's a really good 'feel factor' at the moment, with lots of redevelopment going on. Millbay/Union Street as someone has mentioned is a dump, however there are plans for a 300 mill investment in that area over the next few years, which will join up with the Hoe.

House prices are also pretty cheap compared to the rest of the country.

There are currently 3 dive schools that I know of, one of the larger is run by a mate, so there is quite a bit of competition.

Ha ha your right about Bretonside, it's just opposite my flat, although again, thats going to get knocked down and redeveloped.


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## pootle (Sep 14, 2006)

Is the Cooperage still there?

I copped off with the drummer out of Muse there, when they won a battle of the bands heat, whilst they were still working in a bonsai shop, and not prog-rock throwbacks.

I'm awaiting a blue plaque to go up


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## Skim (Sep 14, 2006)

I think the Cooperage is still there, although I haven't ventured inside for a very long time...


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## Asriel (Sep 15, 2006)

Yeah the Cooperage is still there, not sure it's open though, a couple of months there was a band practising there, but that's about it really.


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## craigxcraig (Sep 15, 2006)

My best mate was killed in Plymouth - on a night out. There was a spate where people were getting their heads kicked in by a gang of lads who would pull up in a car and thought it funny to kick the shit out of someone. 

My best mate was out and about, approx 10.30pm about to head home (just married and wife had recently given birth) when 3 lads pulled up in a car, got out punched him once in the face whereupon he fell backwards and smacked his head on the concrete. The hospital turned his life support machine off a week later.

Plymouth is a fackin hole and my memories of the place are that its a very violent city, have seen girls getting their heads punched in by a group of guys, homophobic attacks, random violence all over the place - not occasionally, this was from Wednesday night through to Sunday!

I did hear (someone may verify) but by all accounts Derriford Hospital now have a medical field tent at weekends, at the bottom of Union Street!


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## nightowl (Sep 15, 2006)

craigxcraig said:
			
		

> I did hear (someone may verify) but by all accounts Derriford Hospital now have a medical field tent at weekends, at the bottom of Union Street!



it does. avoid union street like the plague


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## Skim (Sep 15, 2006)

Sorry to hear about your mate Craig, that's tragic.

Union Street isn't pretty, but in Plymouth's defence, random drink-fuelled violence happens every night in cities and towns all over the country


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## t0bytoo (Sep 27, 2006)

Thanks for all your replies (and chit chat).

I arrived in Plymouth today and will be leaving in the morning. The dive business I was looking at is a non-starter.

It's pissing down with rain outside, which, I reckon, is the best way to get an overview of what a place would be like for living in.

Not a very pretty place, is it?


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## Idaho (Sep 27, 2006)

Yeah my impressions are that it's a hole, but I didn't want to say. However there are loads of places around that are nicer. Don't give it up just yet, just extend your search.


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## Poot (Oct 1, 2006)

This thread is making me sad. 

I'm sorry about your mate, Craig. Really, that's a horrific tragedy and there are some total fuckwits in the world. It was an indefensible act.

But Plymouth is not all bad. I never thought I would ever defend the place, to be honest, but it has improved no end in the two years I've been here. There are places I would avoid, Union Street being top of the list (yes there is a field hospital there) but there is also the Barbican, the Hoe, some great new restaurants, a shopping centre which opens this week, and a general sense that people are finally starting to take some pride in the place. If I was going to invest anywhere, I would invest in somewhere like Plymouth because there's a lot of regeneration here and I've just heard of a huge new development that has the green light. 

Obviously it's far from perfect, and no it's not pretty. It was bombed massively in the second world war and rebuilt hurriedly. But it's definitely getting better.


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## fractionMan (Oct 2, 2006)

Truth be told, I had a great time growing up in plymouth.  There was a wicked rave scene for one thing.  

I live in bath now, but growing up here must be really fucking dull.


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## Roadkill (Oct 2, 2006)

I haven't been to Plymouth for a long time, but I've a friend from there who says its great.

On the other hand, she and I studied together at Hull Uni: she described Hull as the one and only city with an uglier centre than Plymouth!  Not that that's surprising, since Hull got the post-war rebuilding plan that Plymouth turned down!  In fact, there are a lot of similarities between the two cities.  Both are quite isolated, of a similar size, dominated by maritime indutries of one sort or another, and both were flattened in the war.

I'd like to visit again.  Since I love Hull I'd probably feel quite at home there!


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## craigxcraig (Oct 3, 2006)

Thanks for comments re my good friend - very much missed (only just saw this thread again and saw your comments!) I was in Plymouth myself for about three years and I did have a great time - though the threat of violence at all hours has given me a poor view.


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