# Anyone into spray painting?



## Prince Bert (Mar 17, 2013)

I'm not sure it is artistic but I recently spray painted part of my microwave using a metallic silver Audi spray paint, and am fascinated by the finish. I suddenly have an urge to paint other things, and am thinking of doing a fridge although that seems like a huge job and would be harsh if it went wrong.

I seen a lovely colour called Cobalt blue which is a fairly expensive metallic blue colour. Does anyone know about spray painting, and whether it is possible to do it on the cheap?

To paint a thin one inch by 26inch (approx) strip of my microwave took the best part of a 150ml bottle. I gave it three coats ten minutes apart. I didn't use a primer, so I don't know how it will turn out when it dries. I had actually scratched the original colour off the microwave when cleaning it with a brillo pad (my reason for paining it) so maybe this acted as a good base for allowing the spray to stick to it - kind of like sandpaper.

Anyway, any tips on this. Primer or no primer?? Gloss, or double acrylic?? I don't even know what half this stuff means, but I would like to do a bigger spray paint job in the next couple of weeks if I can.


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## Fez909 (Mar 17, 2013)

I don't know anything about this but it all sounds interesting.

Pics?


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## Fez909 (Mar 17, 2013)

According to this your paint might flake because you didn't use a primer. Your scouring sounds like it was a good move, though!


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## Prince Bert (Mar 17, 2013)

Fez909 said:


> According to this your paint might flake because you didn't use a primer. Your scouring sounds like it was a good move, though!


 
Yeah, I was worried about that. When I was spray painting there was a tiny lump forming with spray paint which I tried to remove with a cotton bud. That showed me how this spray paint just seems like a kind of selotape substance that could flake, although it had not dried at the time. Hopefully it will stick. As for pics, hope to spray the rest of the microwave when I buy more paint - maybe a different shade of silver. At that point I will do some before and after pics.


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## Fez909 (Mar 17, 2013)

I have to admit I've never thought to paint electrical equipment, etc. It's a great idea! Hope it turns out well.


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## Miss Caphat (Mar 17, 2013)

Prince Bert said:


> Yeah, I was worried about that. When I was spray painting there was a tiny lump forming with spray paint which I tried to remove with a cotton bud. That showed me how this spray paint just seems like a kind of selotape substance that could flake, although it had not dried at the time. Hopefully it will stick. As for pics, hope to spray the rest of the microwave when I buy more paint - maybe a different shade of silver. At that point I will do some before and after pics.


 
not to be a killjoy but are you sure you should be spray-painting a microwave? 
at least make sure you don't get any in the vents.


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## DownwardDog (Mar 17, 2013)

Are you spraying from a rattle can or airbrush? It's hard to get a good finish from a rattle can as the propellant pressures are so high. For a job of that size you want to be airbrushing at 15-20psi. I'd go with primer then 2 coats of acrylic thinned with ethanol then a clear coat then flat it down with 1000 grit and then another clear coat.


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## stuff_it (Mar 17, 2013)

Miss Caphat said:


> not to be a killjoy but are you sure you should be spray-painting a microwave?
> at least make sure you don't get any in the vents.


It's a Farraday cage, the worst that would happen is they might burn out the motor.


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## ViolentPanda (Mar 17, 2013)

Prince Bert said:


> I'm not sure it is artistic but I recently spray painted part of my microwave using a metallic silver Audi spray paint, and am fascinated by the finish. I suddenly have an urge to paint other things, and am thinking of doing a fridge although that seems like a huge job and would be harsh if it went wrong.
> 
> I seen a lovely colour called Cobalt blue which is a fairly expensive metallic blue colour. Does anyone know about spray painting, and whether it is possible to do it on the cheap?


 
TBF, spraycans are about as cheap as you'll get!



> To paint a thin one inch by 26inch (approx) strip of my microwave took the best part of a 150ml bottle. I gave it three coats ten minutes apart. I didn't use a primer, so I don't know how it will turn out when it dries. I had actually scratched the original colour off the microwave when cleaning it with a brillo pad (my reason for paining it) so maybe this acted as a good base for allowing the spray to stick to it - kind of like sandpaper.


 
"Keying" the surface to be sprayed is *always* a good idea, even if you then primer it before painting.



> Anyway, any tips on this. Primer or no primer?? Gloss, or double acrylic?? I don't even know what half this stuff means, but I would like to do a bigger spray paint job in the next couple of weeks if I can.


 
Depends. Priming first, then overspraying the paint with a lacquer once it's dry certainly improves durability. I had some ammo cans that I wanted to make look a bit more "homely" than their olive-drab finish, so I rubbed them down with a medium-grit wet and dry paper, primed them with a red oxide primer, lightly-sanded that to get rid of any drip marks and flat it down, then oversprayed with 2 coats of a very nice metallic blue to the main bosy. Masked off the main body around the handles once the paint was dry (low-tack masking tape is your friend!) and oversprayed the handles in a pearlescent gray. Oversprayed the lot with a semi-gloss lacquer once dry.
So far, the finish has survived several years of being lumped around. 
The primer provides a separating coat (usually corrosion-inhibiting on metal) between the base surface and the topcoat. It seals the surface and provides a decent "key" for the topcoat(s).
As far as "gloss" or matt" finish, it depends whether you're looking for a glassy sheen or something a bit more subtle.


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## Yelkcub (Mar 17, 2013)

Have you ever been in the toilets at The Albert?


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## ViolentPanda (Mar 17, 2013)

Fez909 said:


> I have to admit I've never thought to paint electrical equipment, etc. It's a great idea! Hope it turns out well.


 
Humbrol and other paint manufacturers do a whole range of coloured spray enamels for gussying up "white goods". The more fluorescent ones aren't to my taste, but they do some good metallics.


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## Prince Bert (Mar 17, 2013)

Miss Caphat said:


> not to be a killjoy but are you sure you should be spray-painting a microwave?
> at least make sure you don't get any in the vents.


 
The section I was painting was not near the vents. In any case I removed the entire back panel where all the vents are and covered the electrical parts of the microwave entirely. With the rear section removed it will be easy to spray it.



DownwardDog said:


> Are you spraying from a rattle can or airbrush? It's hard to get a good finish from a rattle can as the propellant pressures are so high. For a job of that size you want to be airbrushing at 15-20psi. I'd go with primer then 2 coats of acrylic thinned with ethanol then a clear coat then flat it down with 1000 grit and then another clear coat.


 
Fookin hell, that sounds like a pro job. I take it you mean lacquer as well by "clear coat". The spray paint I used was Hycote double acrylic rattle can. By the way I don't know the difference between an airbrush or a rattle can despite briefly googling it. Nor do I know how you mix with ethanol from a spray can.

I don't fancy sanding after spraying in case I mess it up or it doesn't work out, particularly as I would be spraying a fridge if things go right. Sanding before priming sounds like a good idea.

I think the primers are coloured according to your main colour? So grey primer if you are spraying blue etc?? This could work out damn expensive to do a big fridge with all those coats.



ViolentPanda said:


> Depends. Priming first, then overspraying the paint with a lacquer once it's dry certainly improves durability. I had some ammo cans that I wanted to make look a bit more "homely" than their olive-drab finish, so I rubbed them down with a medium-grit wet and dry paper, primed them with a red oxide primer, lightly-sanded that to get rid of any drip marks and flat it down, then oversprayed with 2 coats of a very nice metallic blue to the main bosy. Masked off the main body around the handles once the paint was dry (low-tack masking tape is your friend!) and oversprayed the handles in a pearlescent gray. Oversprayed the lot with a semi-gloss lacquer once dry.
> So far, the finish has survived several years of being lumped around.
> The primer provides a separating coat (usually corrosion-inhibiting on metal) between the base surface and the topcoat. It seals the surface and provides a decent "key" for the topcoat(s).
> As far as "gloss" or matt" finish, it depends whether you're looking for a glassy sheen or something a bit more subtle.


 
Why did you use red primer for metallic blue, and which brand of metallic blue was it?

What does the gloss lacquer add to the finish? If it metallic already then why do you need more of a shine? Also was it a clear lacquer??


Also, does anyone know good shops for buying spray paint in N /NW / Central London?


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## ViolentPanda (Mar 18, 2013)

Prince Bert said:


> Why did you use red primer for metallic blue, and which brand of metallic blue was it?


 
Because I had an unused can of red oxide primer to hand. The metallic blue was "Plasti-Kote Projekt Paint".



> What does the gloss lacquer add to the finish? If it metallic already then why do you need more of a shine? Also was it a clear lacquer??


 
yep, it was clear. I used it to add depth to the shine, and to provide a protective coat to the paint finish


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## Prince Bert (Mar 18, 2013)

Thanks. They recommend grey primer for blue. I bought that today in Homebase - clear lacquer, grey primer, and some more silver. I am thinking of buying metallic blue spray from Halfords. The amount of car colours Halfords have on their website is crazy. I just hope the stock them in store.

My concern now is the weather being so cold. I would like to spray in the next week, but the only heating in my flat is an electric blow heater. Apart from that it is bound to be below 10 degrees outside. I guess I could set up the heater in the kitchen and spray in there.

What about face masks? I will probably buy the cheapest possible and see what happens. I can only paint my lungs blue I suppose.


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## ViolentPanda (Mar 19, 2013)

Prince Bert said:


> Thanks. They recommend grey primer for blue. I bought that today in Homebase - clear lacquer, grey primer, and some more silver. I am thinking of buying metallic blue spray from Halfords. The amount of car colours Halfords have on their website is crazy. I just hope the stock them in store.
> 
> My concern now is the weather being so cold. I would like to spray in the next week, but the only heating in my flat is an electric blow heater. Apart from that it is bound to be below 10 degrees outside. I guess I could set up the heater in the kitchen and spray in there.
> 
> What about face masks? I will probably buy the cheapest possible and see what happens. I can only paint my lungs blue I suppose.


 
You need one for specifically for paint spraying, rather than particulates. usually about £3-5 for a pack of 3 disposables.


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## plurker (Mar 19, 2013)

plastiklote is the devils' spawn, apart form the stink it's a nightmare with it having such precise 'you must coat every 4 hours' bullshit. 
I spent pretty much an entire 4 days doing numerous coats on the (wood) furniture for my campervan. I followed their instructions to the letter.  Then applied their lacquer - which 'crazed' and caused the whole thing to look shit.  Given I only had one day prior to taking the van on a 4 week holiday I had no choice but to put the units in looking like this: http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3106/2625613429_8b0abd9f1d.jpg

Their customer services said it must have been my fault...ho hum.

When i painted on the campervan I used VW-brand paint for the colour-match (L90D, fact fans!) and Halfords primers, which srayed, and dried fine. The nozzles they supply on the tins are a bit spattery though, so I suggest you buy a decent nozzle (in art shops), key thing on metal is to go slow and do many coats is better than getting drips and then having to sand back and start again...and for walls just spray quick - Molotow > Belton 

ALWAYS use a face-mask, as above, one specifically for spray-work. Worth spending on this or all this stuff goes into your lungs. Don't spray outside if it's windy. Don't spray if it's properly cold. Be careful drying it with a blow heater - you'll end up with dust particles on it.


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## Prince Bert (Mar 19, 2013)

Annoying. That's exactly what happened to me, but then I didn't use a primer. I put lacquer on the small strip of the microwave I had painted today and it went crazy. I think I sprayed too much lacquer. I got drips on one side, and dark marks elsewhere.

I have just started on the main part of the microwave. I gave it five coats of thinly sprayed primer ten minutes apart. Apparently you are meant to use a special primer for galvanised metal, but I had sanded this metal down with medium grit sandpaper, and probably got a lung full of mercury. Hopefully the primer will make it easier. But my lesson was go easy on the lacquer. Of all things that seems to be one that punishes you if you spray too much.

Plasti-Kote seem to get mixed reviews on the internet. I might just stick with rustoleum if that works OK for me.

Anyway, did you do the draws again? If so did you sand them down or use some kind of thinner??


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## dessiato (Mar 19, 2013)

I used to do my own car repairs, I was into body work and custom, and the key to getting a good spray job is preparation. Make sure that the metal is properly clean, and flat it with a fine grain paper, use a lot of water. After make sure it is properly cleaned again. Then spray. Try to keep the paint nozzle the same distance from the surface for the whole spray. After you have completed the number of coats you wish to lay down, let the paint harden properly, this can take a good day, then flat off the paint with a very fine wet and dry before buffing with a woo polishing bonnet.

It's a lot of work to get a perfect finish, but the level of satisfaction is immense.

Or, for speed, flat off the surface, wipe it with a lint free cloth, spray a few times. You'll not get the finish, nor will it last for a long time. But it will make a tatty microwave look better.


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## Prince Bert (Mar 19, 2013)

dessiato said:


> I used to do my own car repairs, I was into body work and custom, and the key to getting a good spray job is preparation. Make sure that the metal is properly clean, and flat it with a fine grain paper, use a lot of water. After make sure it is properly cleaned again. Then spray. Try to keep the paint nozzle the same distance from the surface for the whole spray. After you have completed the number of coats you wish to lay down, let the paint harden properly, this can take a good day, then flat off the paint with a very fine wet and dry before buffing with a woo polishing bonnet.


 
Did you work on recent cars that were galvanised steel? Do you think a normal general purpose primer is good enough as long as you sand properly?

What grit of sandpaper did you use on metal? I used 120 grit sandpaper and done it dry. I don't think it had any bad effect on the existing metal - but I am talking about the metal I just applied a primer to. I haven't sprayed it yet so don't know the results.

Also, if you are applying a primer, main coat, then a lacquer do you think you should allow them to dry for at least 24 hours before going on to the next stage. I want to spray more of the white goods in my flat before I move but I am not sure I will have time to do it. I don't want the removal men to be grabbing at paint work that isn't properly finished. I guess a good lacquer is the main thing.


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## ViolentPanda (Mar 19, 2013)

plurker said:


> plastiklote is the devils' spawn, apart form the stink it's a nightmare with it having such precise 'you must coat every 4 hours' bullshit.


 
TBH, I always ignore the instructions, except if they recommend warming the spraycan, which I always do in a bucket of hottish water.


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## dessiato (Mar 20, 2013)

Prince Bert said:


> Did you work on recent cars that were galvanised steel? Do you think a normal general purpose primer is good enough as long as you sand properly?
> 
> What grit of sandpaper did you use on metal? I used 120 grit sandpaper and done it dry. I don't think it had any bad effect on the existing metal - but I am talking about the metal I just applied a primer to. I haven't sprayed it yet so don't know the results.
> 
> Also, if you are applying a primer, main coat, then a lacquer do you think you should allow them to dry for at least 24 hours before going on to the next stage. I want to spray more of the white goods in my flat before I move but I am not sure I will have time to do it. I don't want the removal men to be grabbing at paint work that isn't properly finished. I guess a good lacquer is the main thing.


 
With galvanised paint there are a lot of problems related to the ability of the paint to adhere to the zinc. Preparation is key to this, as is a good primer coat. 

From the posts I am assuming that you want to paint white goods. In this case use a good grade of wet paper, rinse and change the water regularly, to get a good key then just spray. You might not need a primer if you have not taken the paint too far down. 

I'd use a coarser grit to start, but finish with a very fine paper. If I were doing white goods I'd start with something finer than a 120, you are only wanting to key the surface.

If you are not sure about the likelihood of the paint adhering, put a bit of masking tape onto the surface, spray, wait a few days to make sure the paint is dry. Then pull the tape off, if the paint comes of then it is not going to stick to the surface. 

I'd always let the paint dry thoroughly before putting on the next coat. This can be very short if done in a good, warm, dry environment. On smaller parts you should be able to get up to ten coats on in a day easily.

Somewhere on youtube there is a short video about painting onto galvanised metal.


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## bi0boy (Mar 20, 2013)

Face masks. These are worse than useless unless you know how to fit them properly. You best bet is to do it outside upwind of your spray thingy in a decent breeze.


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## dessiato (Mar 21, 2013)

bi0boy said:


> Face masks. These are worse than useless unless you know how to fit them properly. You best bet is to do it outside upwind of your spray thingy in a decent breeze.


But the quality of the finish is going to be dreadful unless you can guarantee that the air is dust free, and moisture free.


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## bi0boy (Mar 21, 2013)

dessiato said:


> But the quality of the finish is going to be dreadful unless you can guarantee that the air is dust free, and moisture free.


 
Use some LEV or a full face respirator then. Having a metallic pink washing machine is no recompense for having metallic pink lungs.


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## dessiato (Mar 21, 2013)

bi0boy said:


> Use some LEV or a full face respirator then. Having a metallic pink washing machine is no recompense for having metallic pink lungs.


I always use masks when spray painting. Disposable ones are OK for small jobs, for anything larger I take additional precautions.


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## Mrs Magpie (Mar 21, 2013)

A scene-painter friend painted my old flat including the fridge which had a Rousseau-esque tiger in foliage on my fridge. She used ordinary household paint and brushes and it was still good years later. In fact the fridge died first.


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## stuff_it (Mar 21, 2013)

Prince Bert said:


> Thanks. They recommend grey primer for blue. I bought that today in Homebase - clear lacquer, grey primer, and some more silver. I am thinking of buying metallic blue spray from Halfords. The amount of car colours Halfords have on their website is crazy. I just hope the stock them in store.
> 
> My concern now is the weather being so cold. I would like to spray in the next week, but the only heating in my flat is an electric blow heater. Apart from that it is bound to be below 10 degrees outside. I guess I could set up the heater in the kitchen and spray in there.
> 
> What about face masks? I will probably buy the cheapest possible and see what happens. I can only paint my lungs blue I suppose.


Are you sure it's wise to spray in an enclosed space with one of those blow heaters? It could easily ignite the fumes.


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## dessiato (Mar 21, 2013)

Mrs Magpie said:


> A scene-painter friend painted my old flat including the fridge which had a Rousseau-esque tiger in foliage on my fridge. She used ordinary household paint and brushes and it was still good years later. In fact the fridge died first.


I'd like something like that! I don't know if you still can, but you used to be able to buy wraps for white goods.


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## dessiato (Mar 21, 2013)

stuff_it said:


> Are you sure it's wise to spray in an enclosed space with one of those blow heaters? It could easily ignite the fumes.


I've sprayed in front of gas flame heaters. I've not had an accident doing so.


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## Mrs Magpie (Mar 21, 2013)

stuff_it said:


> Are you sure it's wise to spray in an enclosed space with one of those blow heaters? It could easily ignite the fumes.


Plus if you use spray paint indoors, everything else gets covered in a fine spray. It's outside or a recipe for grief.


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## stuff_it (Mar 21, 2013)

dessiato said:


> I've sprayed in front of gas flame heaters. I've not had an accident doing so.


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## Mrs Magpie (Mar 21, 2013)

dessiato said:


> I've sprayed in front of gas flame heaters. I've not had an accident doing so.


Yet...let's face it, with your track record of facepalmy accidents, most people don't take safety accident-avoiding advice off you.


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## dessiato (Mar 21, 2013)

stuff_it said:


>





Mrs Magpie said:


> Yet...let's face it, with your track record of facepalmy accidents, most people don't take safety accident-avoiding advice off you.


You just make sure that the heater is a long way from where you are spraying, and never spray towards an open heat source.


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## Mrs Magpie (Mar 21, 2013)

dessiato said:


> You just make sure that the heater is a long way from where you are spraying, and never spray towards an open heat source.


Yes, but you're the man who has stabbed himself in the foot while opening a bottle as the latest of a long series of mishaps so let me just say
DON'T LISTEN TO SAFETY ADVICE FROM DESSIATO!


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## Prince Bert (Mar 21, 2013)

dessiato said:


> You just make sure that the heater is a long way from where you are spraying, and never spray towards an open heat source.


 
Thanks. I think I'll take you wise advice.


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## Cid (Mar 26, 2013)

bi0boy said:


> Face masks. These are worse than useless unless you know how to fit them properly. You best bet is to do it outside upwind of your spray thingy in a decent breeze.


 
They're not exactly hard to fit though... Just need to make sure you're breathing through the filter, decent half mask with appropriate filters is fine. Even if you're out in the open you should be using one really.

Although loads of people seem to use dust masks. Think about it... _dust_ masks.


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